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PASCAL MANNAERTS
The Citadel, an impressive honey-colored structure overlooking the Tigris River, is one example of Hasankeyf’s archaeological and religious significance.
An ancient Turkish town along the Syrian border is on the verge of destruction. But not because of war or extremism.
Hasankeyf is tucked along the banks of the Tigris River. The area is littered with history: neolithic caves, Roman ruins and medieval monuments. Yet this precious example of Mesopotamian history will almost inevitably disappear once an enormous new dam is installed.
Some 78,000 people, the majority of whom are Kurds, live in this region and will be displaced once the Ilisu Dam is finished. It’s unclear exactly when the area will be flooded, but the new structure is already more than 80 percent complete.

PASCAL MANNAERTS
Hasankeyf’s historic treasures will be submerged once the construction of the Ilisu Dam is complete.
At 12,000 years old, many say that Hasankeyf meets all the criteria to be deemed a UNESCO World Heritage site. But Turkey has not officially applied for heritage status.
Last year, Belgian photographer Pascal Mannaerts documented what could be the town’s final days. Here are some of his images.

PASCAL MANNAERTS
Between 25,000 and 78,000 people living in the Hasankeyf district of Batman Province in Turkey will be forced to move because of the Ilisu Dam.

PASCAL MANNAERTS
Economic opportunities are rare in this region of Turkey, the site of a three-decade civil war between the Kurdistan Workers’ Party (PKK) guerrilla army and the Turkish state.
PASCAL MANNAERTS
Most of Hasankeyf’s current population is Kurdish, but Assyrians/Syriacs and Arab Christian families used to live in cave houses by the river. Many of these families emigrated to France, Germany and Switzerland as the Turkish government’s conflict with the PKK escalated in the 1980s.
PASCAL MANNAERTS
Awar, 14, was born in Hasankeyf. He is Kurdish, like the majority of the people living there.
PASCAL MANNAERTS
Hasankeyf’s main street at sunrise. In the past, many restaurants, souvenir shops and small hotels were open to tourists. In 2010, the government permanently closed many of the ancient monuments, ruins and caves after someone was killed by a falling rock.
PASCAL MANNAERTS
Adar, a hairdresser, poses in front of a poster of Hasankeyf that hangs on the wall of his salon.
PASCAL MANNAERTS
The main purpose of the Ilisu Dam is to produce hydroelectric power, but it’s also supposed to provide better irrigation for local agriculture.
PASCAL MANNAERTS
A construction site for the dam, with the ruins of the old Tigris Bridge in the background.
PASCAL MANNAERTS
Villagers heading home on a sunny afternoon. There is still no clear timeline for requiring residents to move out of their homes.
PASCAL MANNAERTS
Flooding Hasankeyf would destroy a strong symbol of Kurdish community and identity.

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Your enemy’s table has become your footstool

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The expression can be taken philosophically but in the case of Alexander, it was meant literally. The scene is set in Susa, where he arrived in late 331 BC after having spent four weeks in Babylon. Here he installed Sisygambis, Darius’ mother, as well as her grandchildren, who had traveled with her since the aftermath of the Battle of Issus in 333 BC.

The Treasury of Susa was handed over, intact, meaning a bullion of 40,000 talents of gold and silver and 9,000 talents in gold darics. This was the largest amount Alexander ever collected in one take. Happy with this outcome and the surrender of Susa, Alexander sat down on the royal throne of Xerxes to savor the moment. This throne, however, outsized Alexander’s small stature and his feet did not reach the footstool that belonged to his royal seat. One of his attentive pages noticing this shortcoming pulled up a table that had belonged to Darius and slid it under the king’s feet. Alexander was much pleased with this solution but looking around he noticed that one of Darius’ eunuchs was lamenting and crying. He evidently asked him what was the matter and the eunuch replied that he was grieved so see that the table which Darius used for his meals now to serve in such an insulting way. Alexander realized that in the eyes of the Persians he had committed an act of arrogance and ordered the table to be removed. But then Philotas intervened by saying that this was an omen since the table of his enemy had been turned into the king’s footstool. Alexander apparently took the remark at heart and ordered the table to be left at the foot of his throne.

One can argue that Philotas was right, of course, but on the other hand, this was clearly a lack of respect for centuries’ old Persian royal traditions. This incident may well have been one of the first such confrontations between west and east. In Macedonia, things were done in a rather austere way and the eastern wealth with its protocol and glamor was something entirely new.

Alexander’s first encounter with the Oriental way of life occurred right after the Battle of Issus when Darius’ tent had fallen into Macedonian hands and had been prepared for Alexander as he returned from his unsuccessful pursuit of the fleeing Darius. When he entered his enemy’s tent, he remarked – rightfully so – this is what it means to be a king!


Yet, as impressive as these traveling quarters were, it certainly was only a faint hint of what he found two years later in Babylon. Although the origins of Babylon may go back as far as the 23rd century BC, its first archives date from 2286 BC. After being occupied by the Assyrians (Ashurbanipal) and the Neo-Babylonians (Nebuchadnezzar), the Empire fell to the Persians (Cyrus the Great) before Alexander arrived in October 331 BC. This implies that the Palace of Babylon was built, destroyed and rebuilt several times over the centuries and in spite of the shiny blue tiles it has a somewhat reserved appearance.

Susa, on the other hand, was founded circa 4,200 BC and has Elamite origins. This is where the famous Code of Hammurabistood from 1175 BC onwards. The city was also conquered by Cyrus the Great to eventually become part of the Persian Empire. Yet the glazed bricks walls in Susa are friendlier than those at Babylon as many pastel colors were implemented, giving the walls automatically a more pleasant appearance. It is clear that the palace and its decorations must have impressed Alexander and his entourage. After all, they had not seen Persepolis yet!


Certainly, at this stage, Alexander had no idea of the wealth and luxuries that still awaited him making his enemies tables nothing more than his footstools.

Interestingly, the very stone slab on which the king’s throne once stood is still in place among the ruins ofSusa and it is hard to realize that this is the very throne on which Alexander once seated himself. 

The treasures of Alexander the Great. How One Man’s Wealth Shaped the World by Frank Holt

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Wow! That’s the one word that comes to my mind after reading The Treasures of Alexander the Great by Frank Holt(ISBN 978-0-19-995096-6). It is fabulous, meticulous, and breathtaking from cover to cover. Nobody tackled Alexander’s finances before and that is not surprising given the relatively limited facts and figures that are available.

As always, Frank Holt’s painstaking research is remarkable and the huge amount of books he consulted to extrapolate pertaining information is absolutely breathtaking.

He starts, of course, with a general overview of Alexander’s campaigns making a number of pertinent statements often overlooked by the casual reader. There is, for instance, the fact that rural economies suffered as much if not more than the cities taken by Alexander since the army helped themselves to consume the food and livestock in their path leaving the local population totally depleted; or the fact that Alexander had no intention to stimulate economic growth in the lands he occupied. A true eye-opener is the way in which he managed or mismanaged his plunder. Money as such was not important to Alexander but the reaping of treasury was. Frank Holt is able to prove that all the gold and silver amassed by the king was not turned into coinage, far from it. In antiquity, money did not play the role we know today and payments persistently were made by barter and gifts of land (for instance to the new colonists) and others.

From this study, it transpires that Alexander’s money management is far beyond comprehension and that the appointment of his boyhood friend Harpalus as treasurer was not a success (rather a disaster) since he fled just before the Battle of Issus for reasons unspecified. Alexander trusted him a second time in Ecbatanaand with a treasury far beyond any amount of money anyone had ever accumulated! There are limits, even to friendship, one would say and it is hard to believe that Alexander did not exercise any form of control over his financial managers of which Harpalus is only one example – yet the worst one – as he robbed Alexander of thousands of talents and led a life that might have served as model for the Roman Emperor Nero. 

The army had lost and disposed of their wealth on two occasions and after crossing the Gedrosian Desert all was lost again and money became meaningless to the soldiers. How can Alexander not have been aware that his men were broke when they emerged from that hell? He made amends in Susa but it seems that once these soldiers reimbursed their own debts they had nothing left.

The sad conclusion is that nobody fared very well from Alexander’s campaigns, neither the Persians who lost their kings and livelihood to be ruled by foreign successors, nor the Macedonian soldiers who ended up fighting each other and were still demanding their salaries two years after the king’s death.

This great book concludes with carefully gleaned facts and figures arranged in four separate Appendixes: (1) Ancient Measures and Modern Conversions; (2) Summary of Reported Assets, from inheritance and homeland revenues, from war and diplomacy, and from tribute in conquered territories; (3) Summary of reported debts, inherited debts and specific losses and expenditures; (4) Where is it now, listing the known numismatic collections of Alexander coins. These tables are extremely useful to whoever wants to know every tiny detail and show, if needed, how thorough Frank Holt studied Alexander’s treasures.

La Fasification de l’histoire de la Macédoine by Nicolaos K. Martis

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La Falsification de l’histoire de la Macédoine or in English, The Falsification of the History of Macedonia, is written by Nicolaos Martis and has been translated from Greek into French by Marc and Jean-André Vlachos.

In 1984, the Commercial Bank of Greece, in a serious effort to defend the historical truth, financed the translation of this book and copies were distributed to private and official Hellenistic organizations in order to provide the most complete information about Macedonia as an integral part of Greece from antiquity till now.

Nicolaos Martis starts off by quoting texts and using referrals from early antiquity, including the Macedonian kings, the Old Testament, the archaeological finds at sites all over Macedonia with special attention for its most northerly frontier with modern Yugoslavia and Bulgaria. Of course, much attention is given to Alexander the Great and his Empire, followed by the role played by Macedonia after antiquity, in Byzantine times.

A big jump is then made towards Macedonia’s contribution to the liberation of Greece from the Ottoman rule. This process started in the early 1800s when one Balkan country after the other became independent. These were very roaring times that are seldom tackled by modern historians. This part of history is indeed very complex but eventually, these events lead up to form a new country in 1929, the Kingdom of Yugoslavia.

At the end of WW2, in 1945, the monarchy was abolished and one year later the new Federal People’s Republic of Yugoslavia was officially established with President Tito as their leader. At his death in 1980, the country was renamed again to become the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia, composed of six separate republics: the Socialist Republic of Bosnia and Herzegovina, the Socialist Republic of Croatia, the Socialist Republic of Montenegro, the Socialist Republic of Slovenia, the Socialist Republic of Serbia and finally the Socialist Republic of Macedonia.

This latest name is what started all the confusion as it was meant to be a state of ethnic Macedonians, with “Macedonian” as their official language. As Nicolaos Martis manages to prove at the end of his book, there is no such language as Macedonian and there never was either – not even in the days of Alexander the Great! Besides, this Socialist Republic of Macedonia had nothing to do with Greece’s northern province of Macedonia.

As the book was written in 1984, i.e. before the dismantling of the six republics of Yugoslavia upon the death of President Tito, the question of the legitimacy of the new republic and the new name FYROM (Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia) in 1991 is not discussed here.

Tempers fire up regularly, mostly in FYROM as the Macedonian Greeks and Greece as a whole want to keep peace with their northern neighbors. This is obviously a very controversial matter and whatever people’s opinions and convictions, this is not the place to give vent to them. The reason for posting this book is purely informative. And it is not just any book since it received a prize from the Academy of Athens and has been dedicated to the President of the Hellenic Republic, Constantin Caramanlis.

The author, Nicolaos Martis was born in Moustheni (department of Kavala) in 1915. During WW2 he fought against the German invasion, participated in the battles of El Alamein and Rimini and the liberation of Athens in 1944. He held office as Secretary General of the Ministry of Northern Greece (1955-1956), State Secretary of Commerce (1956-1958), Minister of Industry (1958-1961), and finally served as Minister of Northern Greece (1974-1981). He died in 2013.

Intriguing pyramid in Rome

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Many years ago, I remember how this “piramide” (in Italian with the accent on the “ra”) was my beacon to find my way to my lodgings on the road to Ostia. Back then, I did not investigate its origins and just dismissed this dirty monument as one of those extravagant imitations we may encounter anywhere.

This being said, I was truly surprised to hear that this pyramid was an iconic landmark dating from the first century BC and that a Japanese businessman made funds available for its restoration in gratitude for his flourishing business in Italy. The world is certainly full of surprises!


This steep Pyramid was built around 18-12 BC over the tomb of Gaius Cestius measuring at its base 29.6 meters over a height of 37 meters. The tomb itself was a barrel-vaulted chamber of 6x4 meters and 4.8 meter high, once richly decorated with frescoes that were still visible in 1660 when the tomb was opened for the first time since antiquity. Although the tomb had been sealed after construction, it has, as so often, been looted in antiquity. Today it is empty and only scant traces of fresco survived.

Once the place was cleaned up, it appears that this once grim and obscure pyramid is covered with Carrara marble, which evidently has suffered much from physical, chemical and biological decay over the centuries. Thanks to the use of innovative materials and techniques, which will benefit future conservation projects as well, the restoration team was able to deal with Romes pollution issues.

As a bonus, we now can even read the inscriptions carved on the east and west flanks of the pyramid reading Gaius Cestius, son of Lucius, of the gens Pobilia, member of the College of Epulones, praetor, tribune of the plebs, septemvir of the Epulones. On the east side only, this inscription is followed by these lines: The work was completed, in accordance with the will, in 330 days, by the decision of the heir [Lucius] Pontus Mela, son of Publius of the Claudia, and Pothus, freedman.

The shape of the pyramid is a close reminder of those found in Nubia, which had been conquered by Rome in 23 BC. Because of this similarity, it is possible that Cestius somehow participated in the Roman campaign in that country where the idea caught on. It seems that there were other examples of pyramids built in Rome at that time, like the Pyramid of Romulus that was taken down by Pope Alexander VI who used the marble for the steps of St Peter’s Basilica. Before the Roma hype, these pointed pyramids were already favored by the Ptolemy’s in Egypt, a country that fell to Octavian in 30 BC with the dead of the famous Queen Cleopatra.

What a shame that such an odd construction has been taken out of its context and now sits in the middle of the city’s heavy traffic. But there is good news too as the Pyramid is now open to the public every second and fourth Saturday of the month.

Olympia, in the footsteps of Pausanias

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How about walking through a city with a 2,000 years old guidebook in your hands and still finding your way around? That is actually possible in Olympia where you are able to walk in the footsteps of Pausanias who visited and described the city in the second century AD (see: Pausanias - Fϋhrer durch Olympia). Back then, Olympia shone in all its glory some of which we still can find today although we need to put our imagination to work as well.

Olympia is the very place where the Olympic Games were born in 776 BC, a four-yearly event that was celebrated until 393 AD, spanning twelve centuries. The city definitely has something to tell if you listen closely!

According to tradition, the Olympic Games were held at the first full moon after the summer solstice. The high priestess of Olympia would mark the start of these games by lighting the Olympic flame. Participating individuals and city-states would bring offerings to ask for the favor of Zeus and Hera in their respective temples. Among such expensive gifts, some of which made it to the local museum, we find shields, helmets, money, weapons, and statues by the greatest artists of the time. Many cities, in order to raise their prestige, built their own treasuries to house their valued offerings.

From a simple foot race over the entire length of the stadium (192m), the Olympic Games grew into a five-day event with 18 different competitions. These included wrestling and boxing, foot races over longer distances, discus and javelin throwing, chariot and horse racings, and the pentathlon. To allow the participants to travel unharmed through bellicose city-states, a three-month truce was called all over Greece and Olympia attracted as many as 40,000 visitors. The prize of the victors was meager in our modern eyes: a crown of olive leaves and an olive branch cut from the nearby sacred grove. True to Greek idealism of that time, the real prize was eternal glory and fame reaching a sense of immortality.

Like Pausanias, my first stop is at the Temple of Zeus, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World that was completed in 457 BC. It is impossible to follow his detailed description of the roof, the pediments, the metopes, the votive offerings; there is not even an inkling of the famous statue of Zeus created in 432 BC by nobody less than Phidias, whose workshop is nearby. All I find are massive foundations, the steps of the stylobate, with tumbled down drums from the archaic Doric columns one of which has kindly be re-erected for us to visualize. Originally this temple measuring 64x28m was the largest in Greece, six columns wide and 13 columns long, reaching a height of almost 11 meters. It is hard to imagine the beauty and the glory of this building staring at these weathered gray limestone elements which were coated with a thin layer of stucco. The impressive east and west pediments of this temple have been retrieved and are now exhibited in their full splendor at the local museum. They are facing each other over the entire length of the room, set at eye level enabling the visitor to closely witness the mythical chariot race of Pelops and Oinomaos on the east pediment (the fundamental myth of Olympia) and the battle of the Lapiths and Centaurs on the west pediment with a three-meter tall Apollo at its center. Just try to imagine these pediments when standing in front of the remains of the Temple of Zeus with the huge loose drums of the columns lying on the ground. It must have taken the breath away from any visitor to the Games!

At the museum, there is also a splendid light-footed Nike of Paionos (424 BC) that once stood on a triangular base at the southeastern corner of Temple of Zeus, still in situ. Her waving cloak combined with the opening of her wings gives the impression of her flying descent from Mount Olympus to proclaim her victory. The Nike itself is 2.10 meters tall and the base puts her nearly 9 meters up in the air. The inscription “The Messenians and the Naupactians dedicated to Olympic Zeus a tithe of the booty taken from their enemies” refers to their victory over Sparta probably around 421 BC.

The very statue of Zeus in the inner temple is beyond imagination although descriptions from antiquity mention that it basically was an acrolith, i.e. a wooden frame covered with ivory and gold (see also my earlier blog: The ladies of Morgantina), with inlaid eyes. Zeus was crowned with an olive wreath; in his right hand, he held an elephantine statue of Nike, the goddess of Victory, also crowned with a wreath and holding out a ribbon, while in his left hand he was holding the divine scepter. Although the father of the gods was seated, the statue stood 12.4 meters high meaning that his head nearly hit the ceiling. A recent study has revealed that the slabs of 2.8 to 3 cm thick Pentelic marble used for the temple roofing, let through more light than marble from Paros used for the sculptures in the pediment and apparently lit up Zeus’ features (especially the eyes) once the visitor’s eyesight became accustomed to the darkness inside the temple. In order to preserve the ivory body parts of Zeus, these were regularly rubbed with oil that was kept in a special shallow reservoir in front of the statue that may have acted as a reflecting pool as well.

For obvious reasons, Pausanias next stop and mine is at the nearby workshop of Phidias. Since this building was converted into an early Christian church in the 5th century AD, the overall construction and layout have been preserved – enough, it seems, for scholars to recreate the scale model of this workshop that occupies a prominent place at the Museum ofOlympia. It was built especially to house this work of art and it was lit by rows of windows on three different levels. Phidias’ workshop measuring 32x14.5m  could be identified at the hand of the many tools and terracotta molds that were found inside although the solid proof came from a small terracotta cup that was unearthed within its walls carrying the inscription “I belong to Pheidias” and is now exhibited at the museum. The artist’s house must have emitted a certain prestige and elegance when judging by the corner antefixes retrieved on the premises. But then, he was a renowned and accomplished artist, reputed for having worked closely with Pericles at the reconstruction of the Acropolis in Athens. All the sculptures of the Parthenon are by Phidias or were made under his guidance, and his masterpiece certainly was the chryselephantine statue of Athena created some eight years earlier.

The Temple of Hera (the wife of Zeus) was the very first large building in Olympia, built between 650-600 BC making it the oldest known Doric temple built of stone (earlier sanctuaries were made of wood). It is also the first well-preserved peripteral temple, meaning that the columns ran all around the inner sanctum, sixteen deep and six wide. Inside the Heraion was the table on which the garlands for the victors in the Olympic Games were prepared. The museum hosts a wonderful well-restored terracotta acroterion in the shape of a disk that stood on top of each pediment. It may represent the sun or another heavenly body and is unique for its size as well as for the variety of its painted decorations. Better known is certainly the gorgeous Hermes by Praxiteles (late 4th century BC) that was discovered among the ruins of the Heraion. This perfectly rendered Hermes is holding the infant Dionysus who as the future god of wine reaches out for the now lost bunch of grapes which Hermes probably held in his raised right hand. The finely polished 2.13 meters high statue is made of Parian marble and fills the room with its very presence.

At the Philippeon, built by Philip II and finished under Alexander the Great, Pausanias witnessed the statues of both Macedonian kings together with those of Amyntas and Eurydike, Philip’s parents and of Olympias, his wife – all executed by Leochares in ivory and gold. This circular building finished around 338 BC and built to commemorate Philips victory at Chaeronea, has been partially restored to give at least some idea of this exceptional monument although the grand statues are since long gone. For a full description of the Philippeon and its historical context, please refer to my earlier blog: The Philippeon at Olympia.

On the way to the Stadium, then and now, the visitor inevitably passes by the large Nympheion donated by Herodes Atticus and his wife Regilla. The fifteen niches of the circular, two-story high back wall were populated with statues of Herodes Atticus himself, together with those of several Roman Emperors like Antoninus Pius, Hadrian, Marcus Aurelius and their family members. Several of these marble effigies have been recovered and can be admired at the Museum ofOlympia. To name just a few, we find Athenaides, daughter of Herodes Atticus; Annia Faustina or Lucilla, daughters of Emperor Aurelius; Marcus Aurelius himself; the emperors Hadrian and Titus. On the edge of the pool separating the circular part of the rectangular basin in the front stood a life-size bull, also moved to the museum, which carries an inscription left by Herodes Atticus’ wife reading: “Regilla, priestess of Demeter offers the water and appendices to Zeus”. Each end of this rectangular basin was decorated with a small tholos.

Next to this grand Nympheum twelve Treasury Houses of which only five have been identified line up before reaching the Stadium. Today, it is difficult to separate the outline of these buildings from the 6th and 5th century BC but this lack of insight is largely compensated by the 16 basis of Zanes (the plural form of Zeus), whose bronze statues ranging from the 4th century BC to the 1st century AD lined up the way to the entrance of the Stadium. One of these statues even represented Alexander the Great as Zeus! They were actually built using the fines which athletes had to pay for cheating at the Games. The athlete’s name and infringement were recorded on these basis for all to know. They stood here as a warning to future competitors. I find it quite amazing to learn that so many statues were made of costly bronze, silver, and even electron; some even were also chryselephantine sculptures with their hands and face made of gold or ivory (beside the famous Zeus). The wealth of Olympia is far beyond our imagination.

The Stadium is, of course, the piece the resistance standing for all what Olympia was about, the very core of the Olympic Games. An inspiring portion of the vault that originally covered the entire entrance way, the Krypte, added in Hellenistic times is still visible today. Emerging from this tunnel into the blasting light of the Stadium must have added to the athletes’ sense of expectation. The Stadium area was 212.5 meters long and 28 meters wide, but the race field proper met the standard length of 192 meters. Even today, it is quite exciting to stand on the stone departure line facing the challenge of the entire length of the track. In antiquity, some 40,000 spectators from all over Greece would have cheered their favorite figure from the sloping sides, simply sitting on the grass. The only benches were those reserved for the judges, the so-called Exedra set halfway on the south side of the Stadium. Opposite this Exedra and still visible today stood the altar of Demeter Hamyne.

Whether Alexander ever visited Olympia or attended the Olympic Games is uncertain but we do know that the news of his birth in 356 BC was brought to Philip together with the news that his horses had won. This competition was held at the adjacent 780 meters long Hippodrome.

It makes one wonder where all these guests and spectators stayed during the games and it is surprising to find a large guesthouse inside the precinct of Olympia, known as the Leonidaion. It was built around 330 BC and entirely financed by Leonidas of Naxos. It is said to be the largest hostel of antiquity and with its 74 x 80 meters, it is indeed very impressive. What’s more, it must have been a quite pleasant place to stay. The rooms were located on all four sides of the buildings around a central atrium trimmed with 44 Doric columns, imitating the Greek fashion of the time. The rooms on the west side were larger and more luxurious than those on the three other sides. A gallery counting 138 Ionic columns, 5.5 meters tall ran around the outside of the Leonidaion. In Roman times the building was converted into living quarters for their dignitaries and a wavy pool complete with a central island was added. The ornate terracotta sima from this building is particularly handsome with its leave motives and lion head spouts which can be admired at the Museum ofOlympia.

The last complex of importance is composed of the Palaestra and the Gymnasium where all the competitors trained for at least one month before the start of the games. The Palaestra was conceived in the 3rd century BC for the pugilists and wrestlers to exercise. The building was almost square, 66x77 m with a central courtyard surrounded by a colonnade giving access to spaces for practical use like the cloakrooms, teaching rooms, bathrooms, the rooms where athletes could rub themselves with oil and sand, etc. Adjacent on the northern side is the Gymnasium built about a century later. This building is much larger, measuring 120x220m and is entirely closed off. Like the Palaestra it is set around a vast central courtyard with porticos on all four sides. The roof of these wide Stoas was supported on the inner side by a double row of Doric columns. The Gymnasium was appropriately used for those sports requiring more space like running, javelin and discus throwing, etc. By bad weather, the athletes could still exercise under the covered Stoa. Behind the Stoa on the west side were the rooms dedicated to the athletes, while on the east side the Stoa was closed off by a solid outer wall (see also: Olympia, an ongoing excavation project).

It is evident that Olympia cannot be seen without its museum and vice-versa. They truly complement each other.

[Click here to see all the pictures of Olympia]

The unique mosaic from Apamea

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During clandestine excavations on the site of Apamea in October 2011, a mosaic with a very rare and unusual scene was discovered as it represented the foundation of Antioch on the Orontesby Seleucos in 300 BC. The work is obviously Roman and has been dated to the 4th century AD. What makes the picture so unique is that it shows the religious sacrifice as performed by SeleucosI and his son Antiochus I.

The name Apamea appears in 300 BC when Seleucos, a successor of Alexander, created one of the grandest cities in the east. At the Susa mass-wedding of 324 BC, Seleucos married Apame, the daughter of Spitamenes of Bactria. Apame accompanied her husband during all of his expeditions and campaigns and after conquering the east, Seleucos established another capital of his empire at Antioch on the Orontes, today's Antakya in Turkey. The region pleased him so much that he built another beautiful city further inland which he named Apamea (see: Apamea, heritage of Alexander) after his wife. Together with Antakya, it became his most important city of his wide empire that reached from the Mediterranean to the Indus. Seleucos truly moved in Alexander's footsteps and like him, he built many cities, which are said to be all named after family members. One city was named after his father, Antioch; five after his mother Laodicea; four after his two wives Apamea and Stratonikea; and last but not least nine were baptized Seleucia after himself.

After being incorporated into the Roman Empire, Apamea had grown to harbor 250,000 people and became very rich. It was a military base and renowned for breeding military horses. This explains the monumental remains of private and official buildings we still see today on both sides of the colonnaded Cardo.

The abovementioned mosaic was created when the city reached its peak of refinement between the 3rd and the 5th century AD. The alarming fact is, however, that the mosaic has disappeared, probably sold on the black market to some art collector. It is quite peculiar that we have a photograph of this beautiful composition made by an unknown author even if it is not the best shot. The mosaic may have been decorating the floor of a house belonging to some high official as it covers about 10 m2.

[Picture downloaded from Pinterest]

A Greek inscription identifies the sacrifice attended by five standing figures above which floats an eagle, representing Zeus, holding a bull’s head in its claws. We see SeleucosI Nicator (the Victorious) and Antiochus I Soter (the Savior) standing on either side of an altar with a fire burning on which a bull is being sacrificed. Seleucos wears a blue tunic underneath his parade cuirass and a purple cloak; his head is crowned with a golden tiara. Antiochus, in turn, is dressed in a white tunic trimmed with two black stripes covered with a purple cloak as well; he wears some jewels. Next to Seleucos, we recognize Heracles and the Muse Calliope and next to Antiochus we find Ktisis, the female personification of the city holding the tools of the architect. The two women are clad in a belted chiton and show their jewelry.

Interpol has now launched an official search for this so out of common mosaic. Unfortunately, this is not the only one that has disappeared from the site of Apamea that has been badly damaged when the IS occupied the region. Please keep on the look out!

Sunset Oasis by Bahaa Taher

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Basically, my reason for buying Sunset Oasis by Bahaa Taher (ISBN 970-0-340-92488-4) was because the story was set in the Oasis of Siwah which was visited by Alexander nearly two thousand five hundred years ago. It also was warmly recommended by Olaf Kaper at the conclusion of his lecture in 2010 (see: Alexander the Great in Egypt. Lecture of 24 November 2010) - better late than never.

The scene of the novel evolves at the end of the 19th century when Egypt is under British rule. The main figures are Mahmoud, who is appointed to replace the previously murdered District Commissioner at Siwah, and his Irish wife Catherine, who is very well versed in ancient languages and has a great interest in antiquities, particularly in Alexander the Great.

The book gives a fascinating description of their trip through the desert from Cairo to Siwah during which they are caught in a sandstorm, not unlike Alexander’s experience. Their welcome in Siwah is hostile and as if that were not enough, the locals themselves are split between Easterners and Westerners causing friction and problems of their own.

Bahaa Taher interestingly tells the story alternatively from the point of view of Mahmoud, that of Catherine, but also from that of the two main leaders Sheikh Yahya of the western clan and Sheikh Sabir of the eastern clan. There even is an entire chapter where Alexander the Great is giving his thoughts – not entirely without merit. As each person relates his own experiences and thoughts, we also get more information about what happened earlier in their lives and how they feel about it. It is striking to follow their “eastern” way of thinking and reacting (no wonder it collides with the British and in Mahmoud’s case with his Irish wife).

This is all fiction and we should remember that this is a novel, but nonetheless, it makes good reading and gives an excellent insight into a period of time about which little is known otherwise and certainly not from such a remote location as Siwah, close to the Libyan border. It is quite fascinating to follow.

An interesting chapter of Egypt’s history is being told here and for me, a not uninteresting approach to Alexander’s visit to the Oasis of Siwah.

From Afghanistan into Bactria across the Hindu Kush

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Before winter made the high passes of the Hindu Kush impassable, Bessus crossed the mountains north into Bactria, applying the policy of scorched-earth in an attempt to make it impossible for Alexander to follow him. But evidently, he underestimated Alexander's determination and stubbornness!


The ancients thought that the Hindu Kush Mountain Range was a continuation of the Caucasus Mountains and used that name alternatively. They also called it the Paropamisadae, as derived from the Persian word meaning as much as “peak over which the eagle cannot fly”. The Hindu Kush is a nearly 1,000 km long barrier of high mountains running from Afghanistan to India with the highest peak reaching an elevation of 7,708 meters. This range, in fact, separates Central Asia from South Asia or India. In other words, it is a colossal barrier that cannot be underestimated.

It is late November 330 BC when Alexander marches through the narrow ravines that run from Gandhara (modern Kandahar) situated at 1100m via Ghazni to Kabul at 1791 m. The modern road, which certainly takes shortcuts compared to Alexander’s advance, tells us that the distance is a little less than 500 km. Climbing in altitude to 3000 meters at times, the thin air and deep snow make progress very difficult. Under these circumstances, camp is made above the clouds where the nights are ungodly cold and the land is covered with snow. The army suffers from snow blindness and frostbites. In the murky light, many lose their way and get stuck in snowdrifts as the wind howls through the narrows. Food, especially during the last leg of this journey, becomes a daily preoccupation and the meager contribution of the natives hardly supports the Macedonian forces.

Alexander realizes that it is too late in the year to march across the Hindu Kush and settles his army near Begram at the junction of two rivers, the Cophen (Kabul) and the Panshir overlooking a broad plain framed by snowy peaks. Eventually, this city will become one of the many Alexandria’s that patch the world map and will be called, very appropriately Alexandria-in-Caucasus. The army gets a breather of several months with abundant food and fodder available. Meanwhile, the snow falls heavily over the Hindu Kush and in the heart of winter, the mountains are covered with a layer of twenty meters of snow.

Once again, one can only marvel at Alexander’s highly skilled preparations and logistics. Of course, these lands were part of the Achaemenid Empire and as such, they were well-documented and organized but we cannot underestimate Alexander’s own intelligence and scouting parties. He had a choice of passes to pursue Bessus into Bactria and it is generally agreed that he opted for the Khawak Pass. Although this road was the longest (75 kilometers) it also was the lowest (3,550m) and provided the best chances for forage. Here, he outsmarted Bessus who had expected his enemy to take the shortest route where he burnt all the local winter provisions behind him.

In spite of his careful planning, Alexander and his army approaching the Hindu Kush from the south had a strenuous journey. The column is being divided into four sections and the vanguard – the army engineers - had the toughest job of clearing the way. They set out in early spring (sources vary from March to June) marching up the Panshir Valley, some 150 km north of Kabul, suffering from cold and lack of food. As soon as they entered the sheer walls of this gorge, they were confronted with thick crusts of frost as the sun hardly touches the bottom for a mere few minutes this time of year. For many parts of this one hundred-kilometers-long valley, they had to hack their way through the ice. With the first melting of the snow, rivers turning into torrents thunder down the gorges, making treacherous crossings. On top of that, scores of tributary valleys filled with debris and icy waters descend with deafening fury into the Panshir Valley.

It is said that the Macedonians carried a ten-day ration for an expedition that should take four days. Instead, it took Alexander and his army a full week to reach the summit and another ten days to descend into the fertile plains of Central Asia on the other side, i.e. seventeen grueling days in all.

It was not so much the distance that commanded the army’s progress but the terrain itself. The mountain path varied considerably in width. At its narrowest parts, only three men could walk abreast: two infantrymen or one cavalry horse could pass at one time as the baggage train and pack animals formed a file alongside as that was the best – and probably the only – way for the men to access supplies in such a confined space. These were true bottlenecks that held up the entire marching line. It is highly probable that the cavalrymen would dismount their horses to lead their mounts, especially on the ascent.

What is not being recounted in our history books but has been reported by British troops who invaded Afghanistan in 1838 and 1878 are the extreme weather conditions in these parts. Steven Pressfield in his book The Afghan Campaign paints vivid pictures of the Macedonian’s fight with the elements, which come very close to reality.

There seems to be an intensity in the sunrise and sunset in these mountains that is quite unique. The light throws patches of blue and violet on the melting snow, which is being described as a purple veil as misty as a breeze. Worse are the sudden storms that strike, alternating hail and snow. Hail stones rattle the soldiers’ shields and helmets. The men seek shelter against the elements but soon the trail turns into ice making each step slippery and treacherous. The drenched army must have felt the frigid wind cutting right through their bones. They have to sleep where they are on the trail, sheltering against each other and their pack animals as best they can.

When finally the sun breaks through, men and mountains are shrouded in vapor and sweat. The danger of avalanches is very real. Rills and runnels turn into torrents plunging to the depth of the valley. At times, the sun blazes so fiercely that the men take off their cloaks. Yet, one hour later the mild temperatures suddenly plummet as a new load of sleet and hail thunders down on them. Their path is then covered with scree and shingle, making each step a precarious one. Nearer to the top of the pass, they are confronted with glaciers strewn with fissures, crevasses, and cracks in between the upheavals of ice. Whatever part of their upwards trek, the underfoot is unstable and dangerous. On top of that, mountain sickness hits the men who get disoriented and unable to keep any of the scarce food down. Every movement demands a monumental effort and many go snow-blind. The companies start falling apart while the winds howl relentlessly and the icy cold hits the men to the core of their souls.

The Macedonians are far from realizing that the Panshir Valley is a beautiful valley that provides the locals with rich harvests of rice, barley and beans. But all that is now hidden under the thick coat of snow, burrowing even the orchards of pistachios, apricots, pears and mulberries. There is no wood to light a fire and the men have to settle for cold goat meat, frozen onions and iced curd. 

Halfway up in the mountains there was a rock, half a mile high that became identified with Prometheus, a hero from the greatest of all Greek legends that had always been placed in the Caucasus. Here, the legend was conveniently assimilated to the ancient Persian myth in which the eagle Sena had saved the hero Dastan. The story may well have been a good incentive for the army to feel more at home instead of plowing along through these god-forbidden frozen mountains.

Alexander’s army has been estimated at 64,000 troops and 10,000 cavalry horses with an additional number of followers of approximately 36,000, making it a total of 100,000 men to meander over these snowy paths. Donald Engels in his Logistics of the Macedonian Army gives detailed calculations of the space occupied by each soldier, horseman and camp follower which enables him to match the marching time of seventeen days as mentioned by antique authors. A highly interesting and trustful analysis.

From the summit of the Caucasus, one could see all the way to the eastern edge of the world according to Aristotle. Alexander and his Companions who had shared his teaching knew this story very well but what they witnessed instead was not the end of the world but ridge after ridge of endless high mountains. How did this influence their opinion or esteem for Aristotle, I wonder.

If the ascent was steep and difficult, the sufferings of the army reached intolerable heights during its descent. On the northern slopes of the Hindu Kush, the snow still filled the crags and masked all the features. Finding and following a trail was a nightmare. The horses had been fitted with snowboots of their own to cope with the deep snow and slippery drifts. The men’s clothing and footgear was not fit for these harsh winter conditions. They trudged on with empty bellies, chewing on wood and wax as they struggled with chronic fatigue. The well-drilled and disciplined Macedonian army falters as avalanches break their column formations into many separate sections.

Famine spread throughout the army and the few remaining amphorae of wine – a mere drop in the ocean – were sold at exorbitant prices, as was the honey. In the lower valleys, the soldiers could supplement their diet with brown trout from the rivers and some herbs but there was no fodder for the animals and orders were issued to slaughter them. However, since the scant scrub bushes were still buried deep under the snow, there was no firewood available and the meat had to be eaten raw.

Descending from the foothills in early June, Alexander made it without trouble to Kunduz and from there to the local capital of Bactra (Balkh in Afghanistan), Here, he allowed his troops to refresh themselves in this relatively generous oasis. The spirits of the army must have revived when terraced fields of rice and barley unfolded in front of them and they could relish at the sight of pear and plums trees. Here the days were warm and pleasant and they found plenty of provisions stored within the city walls as ordered by Bessus to fit his scorched earth policy and now serving Alexander. This evidently was a true bonus as the city opened its gates to the new conqueror!

[Pictures are from Mountains of our Mind and from Place and See except the first one which is clearly from Oliver Stone's film Alexander]

Archaeological research resumed at Pasargadae

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It is always a pleasure to hear about new and update archaeological research anywhere, but that is especially the case for Pasargadae where French and Iranian scholars have joined hands.


Pasargadae, founded by Cyrus the Great in 546 BC,  was the first urban settlement of its time and as such became the prototype for a Persian city, implemented less than a century later by Darius I for the city of Persepolis, as explained in an earlier blog (see: In Search of the City of Persepolis).

There are no doubts about the presence of water channels and dams in and around Pasargadae, as well as about the location of the stone quarries. Moreover, some 300 graves have been identified belonging to different eras ranging from the Neolithic to the Achaemenid period. Latest excavations have even unearthed remains of a 20 km-long wall belonging to the Achaemenid era.

It has been established that the different royal buildings at Pasargadae were not united as a single palatial cluster but spread around in a royal garden of several hectares crossed by several stone waterways. This garden turned out to be only a small parcel in a larger park where houses for the general public, craftsmen and nobility lived in quarters of their own. This park included the Tower of Zendan (also called Salomon’s Prison) as part of a larger complex and the wide basin to the southeast that has suffered from eons of agricultural activities. The vast plateau that rises to the north is generally called “the Citadel” or Tall-i Takht and commands the site. It is in this area of approximately two hectares that about a dozen of sites have been located, one of which was clearly identified as Achaemenid, associated with an ancient canal of more than two kilometers long.

The water needed for the entire population and for irrigation purposes was skillfully led through the many stone channels, some of which have already been exposed. The exact working of this water system has not been clarified yet, neither do we know whether the water was diverted from the nearby Pulvar River or from another source.

Recent excavations have also revealed the foundations of a city gate, which apparently was inspired by similar constructions in Babylon since elements of its typical glazed walls with bas-reliefs of a dragon have been unearthed. It is thought that this gate was built before Darius I came to power, probably by Cyrus the Great in order to celebrate his victories.

More geophysical measurement and physical excavations are required to draw a coherent archaeological map of the entire area of Pasargadae. Let’s keep a close watch on future excavations!

Happy Birthday!

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Today, we are celebrating Alexander’s birthday. This is very unusual because we have only rare dates from antiquity that we can pin down and match to our modern calendar. Luckily for us, Alexander’sbirthday is such an exception.

Unfortunately, we have no picture of the baby or of young Alexander. In fact, we only have one single picture of Alexander made during his lifetime, i.e. the tiny ivory head found in his father’s tomb at Vergina. All other statues, busts, reliefs, mosaics, intaglios, medallions and coins of Alexanderthe Great are either copies of contemporary works or creations from later centuries. His favorite sculptor Lysippos has transpired through later copies but none of Apelles paintings have survived. Imagine what it would mean to have just one of those originals!

The same goes for Alexander’s historians as nearly all contemporary literature is lost and we have to be content with “second hand” information gleaned by later authors who still had access to the original texts. My secret hope is that one day some of those original documents may be discovered among the Oxyrhynchus papyri that are still being deciphered.

Alexander truly keeps us busy, and rightfully so. Many happy returns, dear Alexander, may you live on forever in the memory of the world!

[Picture from Pinterest]

The Lost World of the Aegean by Maitland A. Edey

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In the series The emergence of Man, Time-Life has edited this book, The Lost World of the Aegean by Maitland A. Edey (ASIN: B000SZQWW2) in the mid-1970s but the subject and the results achieved are still very current.

At the time of my purchase, I was introduced to the Minoan civilization which is nicely developed and pictured in this book. In fact, the package offers much more than this slice of the history of mankind and is a wonderful introduction to the history of the Greek people and their origins. There are many theories but nobody really knows who the people were who would become the Greeks, where they came from or when they arrived. In his book, Maitland Edey refers to a great study made by a British archaeologist specialized in the Bronze Age Aegean and more specifically the Cyclades, Colin Refrew.

The thorough study based mainly of shards of pottery has lead to dividing those early ages into three distinct periods:
- The Early Bronze Age (3000-2000 BC) with a parallel comparison of Early Cycladic, Minoan and Helladic vessels;
- The Middle Bronze Age (2000-1500 BC) with a similar comparison between Middle Cycladic, Minoan and Helladic; and finally
- The Late Bronze Age (1500-1100 BC), showing parallels between Late Cycladic, Minoan and Hellenic which is also known as Mycenaean

The Bronze Age in the Cyclades is carefully examined with their enigmatic and typical marbles. An evolution in the art of these statuettes can be established ranging from the violin-shaped females with their long necks to the figurines with stumpy arms and legs with minimal facial features to figurines standing with crossed arms and showing prominent noses.

This culture was gradually absorbed by the Minoans of Crete and the author details the vestiges of the Great Minoan Royal Palaces discovered and excavated by Arthur Evans. Strangely enough, although the Minoans knew how to read and write as early as 2000 BC their language remains an enigma as it has not been deciphered. However, the many frescoes and vestiges that were recovered from palaces at Knossos, Malia, Kato Zakro, Haghia Triada and Phaistos turn out to be very helpful to create a picture of daily life and the overall organization of this civilization. Unfortunately, these palaces met dramatic and mysterious fates and the Minoan culture suddenly disappeared.

Inevitably, history leads us to the Lost Atlantis, once an island empire that sunk into the sea after the catastrophic eruption of the volcano on which it was built. What remains is the island of Thera(modern Santorini) and it has been established that its fate is linked to that of Crete. The volcano ashes buried Crete under a thick blanket which destroyed crops and fields for years. Among the cities recently unearthed from its ashes is the site of Akrotiri– a situation not unlike that of Pompeii. Thera itself has disclosed a great treasure of lively frescoes depicting people and animals, even an entire 20-ft-long maritime scene of the Libyan coast and a pastoral scene including a series of soldiers marching off towards the battlefield.

As one civilization disappears, another is on the rise and in this case, it are the Myceneans who are taking over the power in the eastern Mediterranean, confirmed and illustrated by the masterpieces recovered from the Royal Graves by Heinrich Schliemann. Beside cities like Tiryns and Mycenae, attention is given to the beehive shaped tomb known as the Treasure of Atreus which Schliemann took for belonging to Agamemnon. The many, mainly gold treasures found at Mycenae are well documented.

When this period of glory crumbled, Greece slumbered into the dark ages which lasted for three or four hundred years and are said to have been darker than the Middle Ages in Western Europe. Rooted in the once so glorious Mycenaean civilization, eventually, the Age of Pericles and Socrates emerged, laying the foundations of our western civilization.

The book concludes with a great chart entitled The Emergence of Man (the actual subtitle of the book, and rightfully so) putting Geology, Archaeology, Time (in millions, then thousands, then hundred of years ago) and Places/Inventions on one line.

It makes fascinating reading!

Extending digital database for threatened archaeological sites

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Recently, there have been several initiatives to revive threatened archaeological sites and to compensate for lost antiquities in war zones. Our precious historical sites face damage from looting (mostly tied to wartime conflicts), mining, and construction projects and to a certain degree from agriculture and natural erosion.

[Clik here to open the EAMENA map]

In an earlier blog, Will a Digital Library of the Middle East compensate for the war losses I highlighted the joint efforts of the CLIR (Council on Library and Information Resources) and the DLME (Digital Library of the Middle East) to create an online inventory of artifacts from our cultural heritage, including otherwise undocumented or uncatalogued items. A separate blog, A Way to Revive the Museum of Raqqa in Syria underscored the initiative of the DGAM (Syrian Directorate General of Antiquities and Museum) together with that of the Section Archaeology of the Near East from the University of Leiden, Netherlands. They may be a mere drop in the ocean but every single effort to preserve our heritage is most welcome, hence worth mentioning.

This means that the latest database created by the EAMENA (Endangered Archaeology in the Middle East and North Africa) is no luxury. The search can be filtered in several ways and is very user-friendly. Since 2015, they have cataloged over 20,000 archaeological sites at severe risk and the information is constantly being updated. Initially, the team created a wide aerial photographic collection to document the archaeological sites especially in the Middle East (APAAME, Aerial Photographic Archive for Archaeology in the Middle East) that is also accessible.

The easiest way to start your search is by clicking on the EAMENA map and follow the instructions.

Andriake’s Museum has opened

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The opening of this museum in Andriake inside the walls of Hadrian’s Granary (131 AD) has been announced a while ago (see: Time to revisit Andriake, the harbor of Myra) and is now a fact.

It has been baptized as The Lycian Civilizations Museum as it not only contains local finds from Myra and Andriake but from the entire region of Lycia, roughly situated at the southern coast of Turkey between Fethiye and Finike. Except for the coastal cities, Lycia has been very little explored but offers a great number of sites which flourished when they joined hands in the Lycian League founded in the early days of the 2nd century BC. The League had a Parliament of its own, the first ever in history, that was located at Patara. This kind of government may well have inspired modern democracy.

More than one thousand artifacts excavated in cities likeMyra, Andriake, Patara, Xanthos, Tlos,Arykanda, Pinara, AntiphellosandOlymposhave found a home in one of the seven rooms of this former Granary. Among the exhibits, there are statues, vessels and other kitchenware, glassware and jewelry.

The site of Andriake itself has been cleared further and has become part of the open-air museum with its harbor, the agora with underground water cistern, a Roman bath and boat, as well as the remains of several churches and even a Jewish temple.

More information about the Lycian League can be found in my earlier blog: A short history of Lycia.

[Click here for more pictures of Andriake]

Alexander’s eloquence

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Eloquence is a highly interesting aspect of Alexander’s personality that only transpires on certain occasions and is hard to figure out as it automatically raises other questions. Was Alexander a born orator? He may well have been. Was Alexander inspired by his father’s eloquence? Not unlikely since Philip was a shrewd manipulator in words and deeds and this ability cannot have been lost on his son. Was Alexander a good pupil of Aristotle? No doubt and certainly when it came to learning those skills which truly mattered to him.

The art of rhetoric is lost in our 21st century of mass communication where fast phonetic language is the rule, but there were times when people would meet to talk for the sake of argumentation. It was an art to use our language effectively in order to convince and to impress our interlocutor with the tiniest of nuances. The fashion was popular with ancient Greeks who liked to elaborate their topics during their Symposia.

Historians like Arrianand Curtius often seem to be quoting Alexander verbatim when he addresses his troops or responds to certain situations. Generally, these words are considered as created by the authors rather than actually pronounced by the king. Maybe so, maybe not. Unfortunately, we have no original texts from Alexander’s journals or from the memoirs written down by his contemporaries like Onesicritus, Callisthenes, Ptolemy or Aristobulus. Therefore it seems too easy and even unfair to dismiss the idea that their accounts could have contained true original quotes and even speeches made by Alexander.

There are many examples of Alexander addressing his troops to motivate and encourage them at the onset of a battle, but he probably spoke to his audiences on many more occasions. It is said that he knew more than one thousand of his men by name and I am certain that he used every opportunity to talk to them in person. In modern vocabulary, he would qualify as being a good communicator.

We generally tend to accept the one sentence quotes that are reported in history, like:
-    when young Alexander sees that Bucephalus is being led away because the horse is judged to be beyond training and exclaimed: “What an excellent horse do they lose, for want of address and boldness to manage him!”
-   when Alexander visits Diogenes in Corinth (that is, IF that meeting did indeed take place) he would have said “If I were not Alexander, I would be Diogenes”
-    when after the Battle ofIssus Darius offers Alexander all of Asia to the Euphrates and the hand of his daughter in marriage, Parmenionencourages his king to accept this offer but Alexander drily responded with “So would I, if I were Parmenion”
-    or the plausible remark making Alexander say “sex and sleep alone make me conscious that I am mortal” or the one showing his bleeding wounds stating that this is not “ichor” flowing through his veins (golden blood of the gods).

It is beyond doubt that Alexander addressed his troops just before battle for he had an excellent personal antenna to gauge the morale of his men and he knew exactly how to motivate them. Very modern is the openness with which Alexander tells his army what they are to expect, embellishing the truth in his favor whenever opportune. But we cannot blame him for that as after all the trick is used by every politician then as now. The art consists in making the message clear and credible. “We are free men and they are slaves” is one such a quote.

The encouraging words he spoke just before crossing the Pillars of Jonah over which Alexander would have to retrace his steps to the PinarusRiver where the Battle of Issus was to take place are very telling. Both Arrianand Curtius spend many lines describing Alexander’s speeches and personal addresses to his commanders and even to individuals of lower ranks, making sure to touch every man’s pride and to get their mind ready for the battle to come.

Like a fine psychologist, he plays the cord that touches the soul of every man. He reminds his Macedonians of their victories in Europe including that at Chaeronea rekindling their old-time valor; he reminds them of the Granicus and the many cities of Asia Minor they have already taken. When he faces the Greek allied forces, he brings up the brutal invasions of the Persians who burned their temples and homes adding that now was the time for revenge. To the Thracians and Illyrians accustomed to a life of plunder, he tells them to focus on the gleaming gold and purple of the enemies and the booty they would yield. Of course, he needs all these soldiers since according to the League of Corinththey joined forces to fight against Persia; they need to be motivated as well. When he tackles the subject of the Greek mercenaries fighting in Persian service, he points out that they fight for pay while Alexander’s own foreign troops – Thracians, Paeonians, Illyrians, Agrianes – are the best and stoutest soldiers in Europe. Enough to kindle every man’s pride!

Arrian concludes by putting these words in Alexander’s mouth: “The enemy of Persians and Medes have lived soft and luxurious, while we Macedonians went to the hard school of danger and war. You have Alexander – they Darius!”. We know the outcome of that battle!

At Gaugamela, Alexander addressed his soldiers in quite a different way since each and every one of them knew how important this victory over the King of Persia was going to be. Nevertheless, he stresses that every soldier should preserve his discipline in the hour of danger, that all orders must be obeyed promptly and that all officers, whatever their rank are to pass their commands to their subordinates without hesitation or delay. Most importantly, Alexander emphasizes that the conduct of each of his men is crucial to the fate of all. In other words, if everyone does his duty as expected their success is assured, but if only one man neglects it the entire army will be in peril. Strong talk.

Once his forces are arranged according to his plan, Alexander once again rides up and down the lines to lift the spirits of every man and every squadron with a last word of encouragement. Everything depends indeed on the commitment of each and every one of Alexander’s troops to maintain the frontline and avoid any gap in the formation that could be exploited by the Persians. Amazingly and against all odds, Alexander has indeed been able to maintain his line of defense. His men did not let him down!

Of an entirely different caliber is Alexander’s earnest appeal to his Macedonians in the case of the Philotas Affair in which his trusted general and boyhood friend is suspected of treason in an attempt to take the life of his king. This is a most threatening and highly alarming situation that can be compared to attacks on the lives of modern leaders like JF Kennedy or King Hassan II of Morocco. Thorough investigations followed these attentats with more or less success.

In Alexander’s case, he had to lead the investigation himself and present the case before his Macedonians in accordance with the prevailing laws. Alexander’s exposé is worthy of the plea held by the most accomplished lawyer. He starts by telling his men how closely he escaped to death. He then shares his deep sorrow when learning that his longtime friend Philotas, and Parmenion his and his father’s most trusted generals conceived a plot to take his life. The informants are then praised for their courage in bringing the bad news to Alexander while he was bathing. Philotas in his efforts to keep the matter quiet must have had goods reasons to do so, he says. He even reads aloud a letter Parmenion sent to his sons, Nicanor and Philotas, which he had intercepted and in which Parmenion advised them to look out for themselves “for thus we shall accomplish what we have planned”. A sentence that had no meaning had the conspiracy not been disclosed. Alexander takes his plea a step further by confiding his hitherto personal skepticism about Philotas who had joined Amyntas (Alexander’s uncle who was under age when his father was killed on the battlefield, upon which Philip was chosen as Macedonia’s new king; with Philip’s death he could claim the throne) to make an impious plot against his life. He tells his soldiers how these acts have torn him apart – working on their sentiments.

Alexander continues by reminding his soldiers that he had put Philotas in command of his elite cavalry, entrusting his life, his hopes and victories to him. He had elected his father, Parmenion, to rule over Media with all its richness, a position that required integrity and respect for his king. Now his trust has been broken and he has fallen victim to such a shameful scheme! Alexander in his speech seeks refuge with his troops, going as far as to state that his own safety lies in their avenge.

Philotas’ defense, which I will not detail here, is not less flamboyant and another example of good rhetoric which, in my eyes, can only be traced back to Aristotle’s teaching.

Most significant and more difficult was the plea Alexander held in India when his Macedonians refused to march beyond the HyphasisRiver. He called a meeting with his officers hoping they would agree on going forward, however, without success. He then gathers his troops and reminds them of what they had accomplished so far. Working on their sentiments, he asks them if they were afraid (a sensitive note, no doubt) and then exposes the great prospects that lay ahead. Alexander has shared all his men’s hardships, suffered the same wounds, the cold, heat, thirst and famine. After these words, his men stood there in utter silence as nobody dared to respond or contradict any of the king’s arguments till Coenus courageously stepped forward to verbalize the thoughts of the Macedonians present. They were determined not to go any further – all they wanted was to go home after too many years away from their loved ones. We know that Alexander sulked in his tent for several days after that but even he could not accomplish a miracle and had to give in and lead the army back west.

Probably the most famous and best documented is the discourse Alexander pronounced at Opis in 324 BC. Here, Alexander called his Macedonians together and announced that he was discharging the veterans among them as well as the wounded and those unfit for further service so they could return to their homes. They would collect their pay and their bonus would make the envy of their family and friends at home. The king expected that his decision would please his Macedonians (who wanted so badly to go home when they were in India!) but instead, they resented his words and told him so with loud shouting. They felt pushed aside in favor of the Persians and other foreign troops and cavalry. It hurt them deeply that the very people they conquered were to take their place.

Although Alexander was taken off guard, he immediately rushed into the rebellious mob to arrest the ringleaders of this mutiny. Then he made a fiery speech addressing his troops that had contributed to his success over the years. He started by referring to his father who brought the mountain people and goat herders to the rich plains of Macedonia and told them how to be victorious in battle. He, Alexander, had led them from victory to victory, adding all of Asia Minor to Macedonia, reaping the riches of Egypt, Syria and Mesopotamia. They conquered the cities of Halicarnassus, Babylon, PersepolisandBactra. He took nothing for himself while they all lived in luxury. He shared his soldiers’ toil and fatigue, hunger and thirst, freezing cold and scorching heat, even their wounds. None of them was killed in flight and those who fell in a glorious death were honored with a splendid burial and their parents were released from taxation.

Finally, Alexander makes a defiant statement: “if you wish to depart, depart all of you!” He tells his Macedonians to go back home to report that when they returned to Susa after all those years of conquests – and he names the peoples, lands, rivers and mountains they conquered – they deserted their king, leaving him under the protection of conquered foreigners. Do they expect their homecoming to be glorious in the eyes of their kin when they hear that they left their king behind? Very strong words, much more fierce than those used in India.

Alexander retires to his quarters for three days. By the third day, he has drawn new plans appointing Persians to occupy the hitherto Macedonian commanding posts, which include his Companions and even his Silver Shields! That was just too much for the Macedonians to bear! The very thought of having those Persian Barbarians commanding them was inconceivable. They thronged around the entrance of Alexander’s quarters begging for admission and offering to give up the ringleaders of the mutiny. Once again, the army conquered the heart of their beloved king but it was Alexander’s eloquence that brought them back to reason.

“Every man of you, I regard as my kinsman, and from now on that is what I shall call you” are the words Alexander used to close the matter. I think this says a lot about the magnanimity of Alexander but we should not forget that his eloquence widely contributed to his success.

[The picture of Alexander at Gaugamela is from Oliver Stone's movie Alexander]

Magnificent Alexander statue found in Alexandria

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Recent excavations in Alexandria (Egypt) have revealed remains of a building from the Ptolemaic times as well as a bridge.

This is part of an ongoing project directed by the Hellenic Institute for the Research of Alexandria Culture which in the past 21 years is working the ShalallatGardens area. In 2015, a large public building belonging to the Ptolemaic era was found and archaeologists believe that it had an arched ceiling. Recently, a carved tunnel was exposed from underneath this massive building at a depth of ten meters.




This is exciting news because these remains are part of the Royal Quarters of the Ptolemies, which have been documented in antiquity. So far, the site has exposed some extraordinary finds of pottery, mosaic floors and coins. The most important find is, of course, this unique marble statue of Alexander the Great, executed in pure Hellenistic style which has been transferred to the National Museum of Alexandria for us to see!


The museum is a treasure trove exhibiting artifacts from old Egypt, as well as from Hellenistic, Roman, Coptic and Islamic eras, including underwater finds. It is the only museum that tells the history of Alexandria through antiquity and it is not surprising that the lovely head of Alexander the Great is kept here.

It seems that bit by bit we are getting closer to getting a picture of the very heart of ancient Alexandria– although there still is a very, very long way to go.

Minor damage at Cos’ Archaeological Museum after earthquake

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What a relieve to hear that the damage at this museum is minimal after the 6.6 magnitude earthquake that hit the island earlier this month. The building itself did not sustain any damage, although it was built in 1936.

The inventory inside the museum revealed that out of the 43 sculptures exhibited on pedestals, only three headless statues and one bust came down, suffering minor chips and mainly to those parts that had been restored with plaster earlier.


Renovation works that were initiated last year, do luckily include earthquake provisions in order to be better prepared in the future.
 
Meanwhile the museum has reopened to the public, a major attraction for tourists to Cos.

Alexander crosses the Hindu Kush a second time

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After two years of intense guerilla fights throughout Sogdiana, Alexander had finally caught Bessus, eliminated Spitamenes and restored a relative peace in Bactria by marrying Roxane. The time had come for him to head for India.

Until now, I was convinced that Alexander returned from Bactria via the Khyber Passbut when I tried to trace where the idea came from, I was in for a surprise. There is no excuse, I should have taken a closer look at the map to realize that the Khyber Pass lies in fact on the way from KabultoPeshawar and not between Bactria and Afghanistan.

With that question solved, I needed to find out which pass Alexander had used leaving Bactria. The antique authors are disappointingly scant in reporting this part of his campaign. Plutarch, Justin, and Diodorus do not mention the crossing of the Hindu Kush – a formidable barrier under all circumstances - on Alexander’s return and Curtius simply states that Alexander set out for India in order not to foster idleness. Arrianseems to be the only one to be more specific telling us that by the end of spring Alexander began his march for India, that he crossed the Indian Caucasus, and ten days later reached Alexandria(-in-the-Caucasus), the city he had founded during his first expedition into Bactria. Strabo merely tells us that Alexander crossed the Hindu Kush and settled his veterans and mercenaries together with natives at Alexandria-in-the Caucasus.

This meant that I had to rely on modern historians and their research on the matter. Unfortunately, they do not agree among themselves about Alexander’s route and it seems that they all have a theory of their own.

FrankHolt (Into the Land of Bones) has come to the conclusion that Alexander marched his army over the ShibarPass. With the winter snows gone, the trek went smoothly and without great logistical problems.

Robin Lane Fox (Alexander the Great) says that Alexander used the same pass as earlier, meaning the KhawakPass (see: From Afghanistan into Bactria across the Hindu Kush). This time in June, the march was at a leisurely pace and took only ten days. The snows had melted and Alexander could rely on food stored in the Sogdian fortresses on the way and on the high grazing grounds for the animals. The army spent a pleasant summer at Alexandria-in-the-Caucasus (Begram) thus avoiding an invasion of India in appalling heat.

A.B. Bosworth (Conquest and Empire) simply mentions that Alexander crossed the passes of the Hindu Kush into the Paropamisadae in ten days and reinforced the city of Alexandria-in-the-Caucasus.

Michael Wood has concluded that Alexander crossed the Hindu Kush via Bamyan, which implies that he took the ShibarPass.

Donald Engels (Alexander the Great and the Logistics of the Macedonian Army) in turn sticks to the SalangPass since this pass is shorter and has often been used by armies in a hurry. Engels states that the army re-crossed the Hindu Kush in late spring but could not forage for grain along the route because harvest at these high altitudes does not occur until July or August. They had to rely on supplies collected by Hephaistion throughout Bactra before departing.

In a footnote, the author refers to the optional Kushan Pass, just east of the Salang Pass, that has been put forward by other historians, but then this Kushan is seldom used because it is precipitous and treacherous – not exactly recommendable for an army. The Salang Pass, on the other hand, although as fast as the Kushan is much safer. He rules out the ShibarPasswhich is longer than the Khawak. Given the ten days it took Alexander to cross the Hindu Kush, Engels’ choice is narrowed down to either theSalangPassor theKushanPass.

All these theories take me back to the map of Afghanistan and of the Hindu Kush in particular. Based on the above, it comes down to choosing between the 3,878 meter-high Salang Pass and the Kushan Pass rising at 4,370 meters located due west of the Salang Pass. Interestingly, this pass is less than one kilometer away from the modern Salang Tunnel built in 1964 with the financial and technological support of the Soviet Union. This meant that traveling time is cut down drastically although repeated avalanches tend to trap the vehicles inside the tunnel, making the voyage still a dangerous one.

Glancing at Google maps provides another quite impressive image of the landscape the Macedonian army crossed. Even with enough food and fodder, we have to admire these sturdy men trudging over narrow paths, through deep ravines, across icy rivers and over rocks of all sizes and shapes. Nobody, not even Hannibal comes close to Alexander’s exploits in the Hindu Kush. In the end, I have to agree with David Engels and agree on the Salang Pass.

We should remember that Alexander’s Asian campaign is much and much more than a series of battles and sieges. Marching often through forbidding landscapes, coping with extreme heat, thunderstorms, crosswinds, dust, rain, sleet and ice, the Macedonians have seen it all but the king set the example by leading his troops over each and every obstacle. The Hindu Kush is just one of these obstacles, although a major one that cannot be stressed enough.

[First picture shows the Shibar Pass by František Řiháček -original prints, CC BY-SA 3.0, - The two other pictures show the Salang Pass by Scott L.Sorensen - My Personal Picture, CC BY 3.0 and by Spc. Michael Vanpool (U.S. Armed Forces) respectively.]

About Indo-Bactrian writing

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How unfortunate that we can take in only so much when visiting places or exhibitions. I often regret that I did not look further into certain details and one of these missed elements is the Indo-Bactrian script. I have seen plenty of such documents at exhibitions about the Silk Road and at the Musée Guimet in Parisbut I merely glanced at them without any mental connection to their writing or tenure. Well, I should have for after all the Bactrian Empire is a heritage of Alexander’s conquest of Central Asia.

Time to catch up!

The other day, I came across an article about the Kharosthi script, another name for the Indo-Bactrian writing that originated in the aftermath of Alexander during the 4th and 3rd century BC in what is now Pakistan. This Kharosthi was a form of Prakrit, an Indo-Aryan language that was used two generations after Alexander by King Asoka for his pillar inscriptions (see: When pillars with unknown writing were discovered in India).


For the good order, we have to go back to the Achaemenid kings who in the early 5th century BC introduced Aramaic, their official language, to their newly conquered territories in Gandhara and along the Indus. They wrote their Aramaic using a North Semitic script which was customized to suit the phonetics of Gandhara, a Prakrit dialect, and this resulted in the creation of Kharosthi. Kharosthi writing was also used for most inscriptions in northwestern India between 220 BC and 200 AD. Sogdiana and Bactria, at the very heart of Central Asia generally used the Kharosthi inscriptions in the days of the Kushan Empire (1st-4th century AD). Because of the flourishing trading along the Silk Road, Kharosthi writing is found all over Central Asia, particularly during Shanshan rule (starting during the 1st century BC) while further examples have been found more to the east in China during the reign of Emperor Ling (168-189 AD).

Kharosthi was not only used for inscriptions or for written documents but it was also stamped on coins during the short-lived Indo-Greek Kingdom when bilingual texts were frequent. A few rare examples showed Kharosthi on pottery found as far as Bengal.

Eventually and due to the increased influence of the Brahmi script, Kharosthi gradually was confined to specific regions till by the 4th century AD it disappeared entirely.

Greek theaters had moveable stages!

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We thought that by now we knew everything about Greek theatres– well, not so!

Recent architectural research has led to believe that there was a moveable wooden stage in ancient Greek theatres. This has been determined in three separate theatres in the Greek Peloponnese: first in Messene, and later also at Megalopolis and Sparta.

Skanotheke plan of the Messene Theatre (scale 1 : 500), Inset: Skanotheke of east parodos. Adapted from R. Yoshitake, The Movable Stage in Hellenistic Greek Theatres. New Documentation form Messene and Comparisons with Sparta and Megalopolis, AA, 2016/2, p. 120, fig. 1 and 2. Credit: Associate Professor Ryuichi Yoshitake

Ancient Greek theatres were bowl shaped with seating around the circular orchestra and at the open end an open stage. After 31 BC, under Roman influence, the stage was elevated and decorated with columns and statues and all sorts of reliefs. Romans often reused and refurbished original Greek theatres but also built the semi-circular model of their own where this back stage was automatically attached to the seating area.

After excavations started in 2007, the research team from KomamotoUniversity discovered three stone rows and a kind of storage room beside the stage of Messenes theatre. When a similar feature was found in Megalopolis and Sparta as well, they started questioning the function of these elements. Their conclusion was that the stone rows would have supported wooden background picture panels that could be wheeled into place and that the storage room would have held them when not in use.

This image shows the reconstruction of the wheeled wooden skene of the Messene Theatre. The wooden stage building (front) is drawn by solid lines, and the hypothetical scene building (back) by gray lines. Adapted from R. Yoshitake, The Movable Stage in Hellenistic Greek Theatres. New Documentation form Messene and Comparisons with Sparta and Megalopolis, AA, 2016/2, p. 123, fig. 6. (drawing by K. Oyama). Credit: Associate Professor Ryuichi Yoshitake & K. Oyama

The Greek theatres had a proskenion, i.e. a one-story building placed on the stage and that functioned as a stage background. Behind this proskenion was a two-story skene that was used as a dressing room for the actors but also as an extra stage background. Now the question arose whether these buildings were made of stone and fixed or made of wood and moveable. They opted for the latest and since moving the massive construction of proskenion and attached skene is highly improbable, they concluded that each building was rolled out separately, each using its own set of two stone rows to move along in and out of the storage room.

Ancient literature indeed mentions rotating devices, but the finds at Messeneseem to confirm that they existed as early as the Hellenistic period although we still don’t know what they really looked like.

The research team of KomamotoUniversity in Japan has even come up with two drawings explaining their theory – see above.
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