Gerasa, known today as Jerash in Jordan,
rises in the broad and fertile valley of the ChrysorrhoasRiver. It is said that Alexander the Great founded a Greek colony on this spot in 334 BC,
although there have been previous occupations on and off, as far back as 3,000
BC.
Close to nothing is mentioned about Alexander’s visit to Gerasa
by ancient historians. Only Curtius
vaguely points into this direction when he tells us that the Samaritans rose up
and burned Andromache, the Greek
governor of Syria,
alive. This happened while Alexander
was in Egypt and based on Eusebius’ Chronicles, he set out
immediately with Perdiccas to raze Gerasa
and Samaria, Alexander avenged this murder, executed
all those who had slain his general and appointed a new governor, a certain Menon. The inhabitants were slaughtered
and enslaved, after which he resettled the site with Macedonians. It seems he
must have saved much of the city after all and not really razed it as Eusebius leads us to believe.
After the death of Alexander, Gerasa and the neighboring
territories were annexed by the Ptolemies in 301 BC. At some time during the
third and second centuries BC, the Seleucids took hold of the area and
undertook a thorough Hellenization contributing greatly to developing Gerasa
into a busy urban center. Antiochus III renamed the city Antiochia-on-the-Chrysorrhoas
or
Antiochia of the Gerasenes, and by 64-63 BC it became a Roman province.
In order to properly govern Judea and Syria situated on the eastern frontier of their
empire, the Romans created a Decapolis, a group of ten cities that
shared the same language, commercial relations, and political status. Each city
enjoyed a certain degree of autonomy with their own Semitic, Nabataean, Aramean
and Jewish culture. We owe it to Plinius
for reporting the full list of the member-cities:
Philadelphia (modern Ammanin Jordan)
Gerasa (now Jerash in Jordan)
Scythopolis (now Beisan in the JordanValley, North Israel)
Gadara (modern Umm Qays in Jordan)
and once the capital of this Decapolis
Hippos (on the banks of Lake Tiberias in Israel)
Dion (probably near Irbid inJordan,
but not yet discovered)
Pella (in the JordanValley, northwest of Ammanin Jordan)
Canatha (now Qanawat
in Syria)
and
Raphana (probably north of Umm Qays in Jordan,
but not yet discovered either).
In 106 Emperor
Trajan added the rich lands of the Nabataeans to the province Arabia and in the years 112-114 a new caravan route was
laid out in the tracks of the 5,000 years old existing one. This Via Nova Triana connected Syria to Aqaba and today’s main road from Ammanto
Aqaba still follows the same route as the King’s Highway. Business with the Nabataeans flourished as they
guarded the important trade route through Petra,
and consequently Gerasa grew – also thanks to the fertile agriculture lands
around the city and the minerals that were dug in nearby Ajloun. Today’s remains of Gerasa date back from those prosperous
days, i.e. 2nd/3rd century, when the city counted 20,000 inhabitants living
mainly on the eastside which is still hidden underneath modern Jerash. Gerasa was one of the
most thriving cities of Palestine.
By the end of the 3rd century however, most of
the trade went overseas and the role of Gerasa became superfluous. Emperor Constantine introduced
Christianity, which was wide-spread by the fifth century as is proven by the
many churches that were built here: 13 churches for the years 400-600 alone.
The earthquakes of 747 severely damaged the city and the population decreased
to about 4,000 and Gerasa became no more than a small village by the time it was
incorporated into the Islamic world shortly thereafter. Slowly this once so
proud city entirely disappeared under layers of sand till it was rediscovered
in the 19th century.
This summarizes my historical baggage when I’m
about to visit old Gerasa, with its fascinating round forum that is advertized in
every single tourists’ brochures.
I’m happy to enter the city through (in reality
next to) the Arch of Hadrian who honored
Gerasa
with a visit in the year 129. The world-traveler, Hadrian! There hardly is any
city that his emperor has not visited and curiously enough every single one of
them built an Arch in loving memory it seems. The monumental arch of Gerasa
is in very good condition and small restorations are not really obvious. As is
customary, it counts three gates and the middle passage is no less than eleven meters high. Both facades are
practically identical and richly decorated with acanthus leaves. The now empty niches
originally held statues, of course. Strangely enough this arch stands about
half a kilometre away, outside the city walls because at the time of its construction
Gerasa
had plans for expansion and building new walls – plans that never materialized.
The modern asphalted road runs more or less on
top of the Chrysorrhoas River that divided Gerasa in two and the
Roman ruins with all the official buildings occupy the left (west) side. A
modern paved road squeeze between this asphalted road and the impressive
remains of the Roman Hippodrome leads
to the modern entrance gate. I walk the entire length of the Hippodrome (260 meters) where pseudo
Romans are now in full action with their horse-races. The eastside of the Hippodrome is best preserved with a complex
system of vaults that was supposed to carry the weight of the 16 or 17 rows of
seating above. I stop a moment to take a close look at the impressive length of
the field, trying to picture how in the third century as many as 15,000 people
filled the tiers.
Once inside the old city walls, I almost
immediately stand in the middle of the Great
Oval Forum bordered with high Ionic columns, the iconic image of Gerasa.
It’s not only the oval shape that captures the attention but also the size of
this entirely paved piazza that is no less than 90 meters long! Behind
the columns runs a two meters wide sidewalk. I stand here in awe for quite a
while, trying to realize that I am really here and not staring at a picture of
some kind. I could have spent much more time on this unique spot, so wondrous.
Although this space is generally referred to as a forum, the archeologists are
not certain about the true function of this space. The significance of the two
square podiums in the middle are also still unclear since they could either have
served as an altar or simply as a base for some statues. Underneath the forum,
the remains of a drainage system have been discovered – how ingenious!
Over my left shoulder lies the large RomanTheater
and ahead of me runs the Cardo, the
north-south axis along the river. My view over the straight road stops at the
first Tetrapylon that marked the
crossing with the southern Decumanus.
A second Tetrapylon stands further
down the Cardo where the northern Decumanus crosses, and beyond that, approximately
800 meters
further, I can see the Northern City Gate.
Almost the entire length of the Cardo
is framed with slender Corinthian columns behind which the side walk, probably
once covered, leads to the entrance of the many temple of the Forum, but when the Cardo was enlarged in the second century, it was decided to replace
the Ionian capitals with Corinthian ones – a matter of fashion probably.
I start my walk over the Cardo and turn left up the southern Decumanus, sensitive as always to the fact that I am treading over
two thousand years old pavements. Standing at the very crossing where once the Tetrapylon stood as a crown jewel is another of those
impressions you cannot easily forget. To my right, the road disappears under
modern Jerash but I’m intrigued by
what I’ll find on the left hand side.
The most impressive building here is the Temple of Artemis
but it takes a while before I can figure out the lay-out among the walls and
stairs that also belong to later Byzantine and Umayyads’ additions. Many
churches have been built and there was even a cathedral with a shrine dedicated
to the Virgin Mary. Since the Temple of Artemis
was set on top of a hill, I have to cross many corridors, jumps many ditches
and climb over many stairs to get there. As always, the choice of the location
is sublime for the temple commanded the view and was the most important
building of Gerasa. Considering the enormous dimensions (the temple
occupies a surface of 34,000 square meters) and the grand setup of
the different parts, this does not come as a surprise. It was actually built
during the second century when the entire city underwent a face-lift.
To be correct, I should have approached the
temple complex from the east, where the Via
Sacra on the other side of the Cardo
starts at a central court surrounded by columns (later holding a Byzantine
church) to join the Cardo flanked by
two fountains. On the opposite side of the street lies a 120-meter-long portico
with four huge columns, crowned with richly decorated architraves, the Propylaea. This part was lushly
decorated and the two still existing side-gates are proof to that. To the left
and to the right, there once were a number of shops, spread over two levels.
After entering the Propylaea I have
to climb a set of wide stairs interrupted by broad terraces which provide
rewarding views over the complex and the city. In the middle of the first
terrace, I find the foundation of a large U-shaped altar according to eastern
traditions. It is possible that an earlier Temple
of Artemis stood here.
A second flight of stairs leads to the terrace
on top of the hill. Access to the central court of 161 x 121 meters was through
one of the surrounding porticos. The Temple
itself was framed by Corinthian columns, six on the short side and eleven on
the long sides. A wide set of stairs led to the cella, the heart of the temple.
The inside walls were covered with marble and in the back stood the statue of
the goddess guarding the temple‘s treasury. Two more sets of stairs led to the
supposedly flat roof where, according to eastern traditions, some rituals were
carried out. It is a strange combination of Hellenistic and Roman construction
elements, mixed with eastern traditions, but this certainly is one of the
largest and most impressive temples I’ve ever seen – more so than Didyma
for instance that kept me in awe.
Loose blocks of columns, capitals and
architrave have been re-used over the centuries for the construction of
surrounding churches and buildings. From the fourth century onwards, entire
parts of the crepidoma were re-used
and re-worked in the surrounding workshops. So it is no surprise to discover a
huge saw in the depth next to the temple. Huge stone blocks and slabs of marble
could be sawn in small plates to build and decorate new constructions. This
machine is evidently a reconstruction with a wooden water-wheel that was
activated by a nearby source, i.e. the power to bring the four saws in motion.
Quite an unexpected surprise!
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When I think having reached the end of the city
at what looks like an arch or a gate, I discover that I have arrived at the
Northern Tetrapylon and
that the Cardo still runs on towards
the northern city Gate. The land on either side has not yet been excavated and is
used at present as grazing grounds for the goats.
I make a left turn to follow the northern Decumanus to the Small Theatre, which was probably conceived as an Odeon. It looks
in pretty good state but upon closer look it has been thoroughly restored. From
the top row of seats I can see as far as the Oval Forum, the Hippodrome
and the Arch of Hadrian – a very
rewarding view in the floodlights of the late evening sun. I climb down, walk
behind the huge Temple of Artemis
where I find a beautiful mosaic floor that once belonged to a Byzantine
Basilica, behind a row of six special churches that filled the back-garden of
the Temple of Artemis. From this spot, I once
again enjoy a breathtaking view over Gerasa now that the colonnades and
streets catch the last sunrays and in particular the fascinating circle of the Forum. There must be around 230 columns
still standing! What a city! What an eye-catcher!
Retracing my steps to the long Cardo, I pass by one of the several Nympheums that are spread all-over the city.
This fountain from the 2nd century is not exceptional big but very gracious.
The colonnade alongside the Cardo has
been interrupted here for the 22-meters-wide entrance. Originally, this
fountain was covered with slabs of coloured marble and the niches held a number
of statues. It must have been a dazzling work of art which we can hardly
imagine.
The large Southern
Theatre is much better preserved than its smaller brother at the other end
of the city, meaning that much more of the original stones have survived. Its
construction started during the reign of Emperor
Domitian, between 81 and 96 AD and was financed by the people of Gerasa.
It has been revealed that a certain Titus
Flavius spent the sum of 3,000 drachmas for one single row of seats! The
theatre still boosts 4,000 seats, with a podium and the two-storied paraskenia in relatively perfect
condition. The four times three niches just underneath the border of the podium
are very well preserved also. I always feel very privileged to walk up and down
a theatre and through its vaulted corridors, whether leading to the podium or
running behind the seating area used by the theatre-goers. Still today people
use these corridors, treading in the same footsteps as those from ancient times.
I walk back, past the poor remains of the large
Temple of Zeus. It is said that the oldest
part of Gerasa lays underneath this sanctuary, maybe even the original
Macedonian settlement. It would be very exciting to have a confirmation of this
theory one day. This Temple of Zeus
however is pure East-Roman since it was consecrated in 162-163 during the reign
of Antoninus Pius. The general plan
is hard to recognize were it not for the proud Corinthian columns. According to
an inscription, a certain Theon would
have paid a huge amount of money for the construction of the temple and for the
bronze statue it once sheltered. The name of the architect of the first temple
terrace has also been found, an inhabitant of Gerasa called Diodorus who financed this monument
during the years 27 and 28 AD. It is information like this that brings the
stones to life, isn’t it?
On this wintry day, the sun sets shortly after
4 pm and it becomes difficult to take any more pictures but this is the time
when nature turns quiet and the spirits of times past come alive, isn’t it? [Click here to view all the pictures of Gerasa]
