In
the days of Alexander the GreatAntalya did not exist. The city was
founded nearly two hundred years later by Attalus
II as a comprise in a political conflict. This happened shortly after 158
BC when said Attalus, King of Pergamon,
attempted to subdue Side. His plan failed but in exchange he was able to add a part
of Pamphylia to his kingdom. This operation was not free of danger because the Pamphylian
cities loved their independency and stood officially under the protection of Rome .Attalus II did not want to ruffle
Roman feathers and could not simply occupy any harbour while he desperately
needed one as otherwise his occupation of Pamphylia was pretty useless. He
solved the problem the diplomatic way by building an entirely new port, which
eventually was named after him Attaleia, i.e. modern Antalya .
Under
Emperor Hadrian, the Attaleia
area became an independent province with a senator as their governor. After
serving the Crusaders as a supply port and being conquered by the Seljuks, it
finally was incorporated in the Ottoman Empire .
The city was famous for its fine wines, but under Islamic law the tradition of
wine-making was lost and replaced by the cultivation of roses. So for the next
centuries rose oil for perfumes became the main source of income. More recently
the farming of silkworms was introduced.
There
is nothing left to see from Hellenistic times in today’s Antalya , only a few traces of Roman occupation.
It is said that the Atatürk Caddesi
follows the outlines of the
old city wall, which is only visible near the Arch of Hadrian built in 130 AD with Corinthian columns in its
façade and a worn out Roman road running underneath. This Arch is flanked by
two massive towers, cleared as recently as the 1950’s. Another relic are the
poor remains of the Temple of Zeus, transformed into a Basilica and later on even
into a mosque – now in total ruins and in desperate need for restoration. Otherwise,
antique Attaleia remains largely hidden underneath the chore of “old Antalya ”
with its narrow streets and Ottoman houses, widely converted into pensyonlar. The Hidirlik Kulesi at the southern end of the port it thought to date
from Roman times, but its role is unclear as some speculate is was meant to be
a mausoleum, while others believe it was part of the citadel. In any case, this
17-meters high tower served as a lighthouse for a while.
But the true treasure of Antalya is – in my eyes at least – the Archaeological Museum for that is where Alexander is waiting for me.
It is a feast each time I visit this Museum and the
thought of seeing all these marvelous statues and well-organized exhibition is
very exciting, although I must have been here at least four or five times
before. There always remains something new to discover, a detail I missed on
previous occasions, a statue that now demands my special attention, or simply a
name that I now recognize.
Among the archaeologists for instance, there is the
name of Cevdet
Bayburtluoğlu which I recognize now as the man who excavated Arykanda
and most of Lycia for that matter, and
whose discoveries and analysis are publicized in his precious guide “Lycia ”.
The showcases filled with mostly Roman glasswork from Perge and Patara
are always worth special scrutiny; as are the terracotta bowls, cups and
amphorae; the bronze objects and coins; and especially the rings and other
pieces of jewellery.
Of
exceptional quality are the many statues from Perge that once enhanced
the large theatre, the baths, the stadium, the Nympheions (fountains) and the Agora.
The walls of these rooms have all been painted in pinkish terracotta making
sure the statues of emperors and dignitaries stand out against them. Almost
each statue has its own floodlight that switches on as soon as the visitor
moves close enough. What a treat! I am particularly impressed by the Diana/Artemis and the Hermes attaching his Sandal as I know both
statues from the Louvre in Paris ,
but that upon closer look differ in slight details: the dress, the sandal, the
hairdo, the position of the feet. These may all remain unnoticed by the casual
visitor but I find this terribly interesting because now I can see for myself
that a Roman copy of a Greek original is not always an exact copy!
In
the room dedicated to the theatre of Perge, I meet up with Alexander the Great standing tall against
a green marble background, pieced together as much as possible and much larger
than life-size. He dominates the room – of course. Hi there! He is in good
company with an oversized Hermes, Dionysus and Satyr. Here I also find Plancia Magna, female demiurge of Perge
(literally worker at the service of the
people, a kind of governor that is)
who received a place of honour inside the Hellenistic Gate of the city around
120 AD (the base of this statue is still in
situ). This shows how emancipated some Romans were in those days! Well,
beside this official title, Plancia Magna
also was a priestess of Artemis and of the Mother of gods – quite a lady to
recon with!
After
a open space filled with mosaics badly needing a scrub down, I arrive among the
sarcophagi – a rich collection in all sorts of styles and from different
provenances. I’m happy to find the one belonging to the Lyciarch Mausoleum in Olympos with a top lid on which a
couple attends a banquet. It pays off to return to the museum after visiting
more excavation sites for what previously was only a name can now be mentally
placed in its original context. This happened for instance after visiting Limyra
as I can now find the long frieze belonging to the Temple together with
the special caryatid from the Heron that was built for the Lycian King Pericles in the 4th century BC; I also get a better
idea of the Cenotaph of Caius Caesar for
which a detailed reconstruction is shown here.
It is a lot of information and a lot of beauty to
take in, and I’m happy to relax for a moment in the museum courtyard to enjoy a
cup of tea. After that I take a last stroll under the awning along the objects
that are not considered good enough to be taken inside. I’m amazed by the many
huge sized amphorae that somehow remind me of Crete
and have not suffered any damage at all. Unbelievable!
[Click here to see all the pictures from the Archaeological Museum in Antalya]