Except for the significant remains in Apollonia
which I discussed earlier (see: Along the Via Egnatia: Apollonia in Illyria), the other cities along the Via
Egnatiahave little remains to offer, merely indications of where to
find its course. As poor as those remains are, I am trying to gather as much
information as possible in this corner of Illyria (today’s Albania), stopping this time at Dyrrhachion .
As mentioned before, the Via
Egnatia (see: Via
Egnatia, a road to remember) was built by the Romans in the 2ndcentury AD and was the main road between Byzantium andRome . As far as Illyria , the road came from Ohrid (FYROM) in the
east, and then ran through Elbasan
from where one arm connected directly to Dyrrhachion (Dürres). Another one diverged to Apolloniaand Antipatrea
(Berat) to end also in Dyrrhachion
on the Adriatic coast where ships ferried people and goods to Brundisium
(Brindisi )
on the Italian side.
This time, I’m stopping at the most western end
of the Via
Egnatiaon the Illyrian side of the Adriatic Sea, i.e. at the city of Dyrrhachion situated at the narrow in the
Adriatic Sea right across from Brindisi ,
some 200 km
to the west. The only significant testimony from antiquity that is left for us
to see is the Roman amphitheatre from the first half of the 2nd century AD, and
even this is incomplete since there are still modern houses sitting on top of
it. Yet it is rather interesting to wonder through the vaulted corridors,
discovering even a small Byzantine chapel. The oval amphitheater reached at its
longest diameter 120
meters and stood originally 20 meters high. It
offered seating for 15,000-18,000 spectators who watched gladiator fights,
animal combats or other artistic shows. It is sad though to see that all the
seating material has been removed – most probably reused somewhere else. Yet is
spite of its bareness and partial excavation it is a most impressive
construction.
As early as 627 BC the first colonists from Corinth and Corfu founded the city of
Epidamnos , named
after the Illyrian King Epidamnos, its
co-founder. The king’s daughter had a
son who received the name Dyrrhachionand it was this name that stuck. Dyrrhachion
wasthe ideal location for a city, built around a natural harbor
with high cliffs and protected on land side by swamps.
Obviously, the envious Romans had their mind
set on this prosperous city and after a fierce fight with the Illyrians in 229
BC they took possession of the city, which they renamed Dyrrhachium, modern Dürres.
Dyrrhachium was the site of a battle during Caesar’s Civil War on 10 July 48 BC. He
faced Pompey who came out victorious,
although not for long. The decisive battle of the Civil War was fought at Pharsalus in Central Greece
on 9 August of that same year. This battle eventually led to the assassination
of Pompey on 3 September 48 BC.
Another waste of lives in history …
Emperor Augustus turned the city into a colony for
his veterans after the Battle of Actium,
proclaiming it to be a free town. By the fourth century Dyrrhachium, became the
capital of the Roman Province of Epirus Nova but it was soon hit
by a severe earthquake that destroyed the city’s defense walls. They were almost
immediately rebuilt to a height of 12 meters and were wide enough for four
horsemen to ride abreast on them. Remaining portions of the wall from the fifth
century are still in place but have lost most of their strength and were first
reshaped by the Byzantine Emperor Anastasios I after the catastrophic
earthquake of 345 AD. He defended the city with three rows of walls guarded by consecutive
fortification towers every 60-65
meters . During later occupations, the walls were modified
several times. Dyrrhachium did not escape the repeated attacks by the Huns,
but in Byzantine times the city gained importance as a major link with western
Europe once again.
There are no traces of the Via
Egnatiato be found in Dürres,
but I am pointed towards a tall apartment building near the beach that
supposedly stands on top of it. The nearby lonely Venetian tower from the 15th
century is said to be built over an earlier Byzantine construction while reusing
its stones. It stands nine meter tall with a diameter of 16 meters and is
surrounded by intriguing modern pebble mosaics with birds and fishes moving
around in a black and white pattern.
[Click here to watch all the pictures of Dürres]
[Click here to watch all the pictures of Dürres]