While Alexander was still in Ephesos , the
Persian governor of Miletus ,
Hegisistratus, made his appearance at
the court. He came in peace, offering the surrender of the city. At that time, Miletus was the largest Greek city on the eastern
shore of the Aegean Sea .
Its origins go back to
Mycenaean times in the 11th century BC. In 670 BC Miletus
started colonizing the coast of the Black Sea, the Mediterranean and the Sea of Marmara . Just like Priene and the other cities
belonging to the Ionic League, Miletus suffered from the repeated Persian
invasions and occupations, the most memorable of which happened when Cyrus defeated Croesus of Lydia
causing the fall of Miletus .
In 499 BC, however, this city led the Ionian
Revolt against the Persians, who in turn punished Miletus and destroyed the powerful city, but it soon recovered.
So, by the time Alexander arrived in 334 BC, Miletus
was in the hands of Persia were it only because its excellent harbour was their
main base, ideally situated to control the other cities of Asia Minor or to
launch a counter-attack on mainland Greece. Miletus was surrounded on three sides
by the sea and had strong fortifications on the landward side. It is not
surprising that Alexander welcomed Hegisistratus’ offer.
In this context, Alexander marched towards Miletus
with only a small number of troops in his entourage. Yet at the same time, news
reached Hegisistratus that a 400
warships strong fleet of the Persians was only three days away. This gave the
governor new hope and a good reason to resist the Macedonian king, who found
the city gates closed upon arrival.
Meanwhile Alexander’s own fleet of 160 ships commanded by Nicanor (brother of Parmenion) had anchored on the island
of Lade , just off Miletus .
The island was fortified with 4,000 men strong garrison ready to make it
difficult for the Persians to use the harbour for their operations. Consequently, the
Persian fleet was forced to land off Mycale, some 15 km south of Miletus .
The situation at sea seemed locked for the time being and Alexander decided to begin besieging Miletus from the land side, confident
that the Persians were in no position to help or reinforce the city from the
sea.
For the time being, Alexander made himself comfortable in
nearby Priene and directed the siege operations from there. It is here
that he was approached by an unexpected embassy led by Glaucippus, a well respected citizen of Miletus . His proposal was that Miletus would become a free city, meaning that both Persians and Macedonians
could use its harbour at will. It is clear that Alexander
would not allow such an important port as Miletus
to remain available to the Persians who from there had access to the entire
coast of Asia Minor .
Early next morning Alexander moved his siege engines forward,
including probably his stone-throwing catapults. Artillery was used to chase
the defenders from the walls and than the battering rams and scaling ladders
were brought in. The wall crumbled soon enough and the city quickly was taken.
The Greek fleet which had positioned itself as a ring around the city
successfully prevented the Persians from giving Miletus any assistance.
Panic broke out among the
citizens of Miletus
who immediately offered to surrender to Alexander.
Most probably Alexander accepted
their plea but he slaughtered nearly all the Greek mercenaries who had defended
the city for the Persians. Only about 300 of these mercenaries managed to
escape, using their shields as makeshift rafts to peddle to safety on one of
the many rocky islets off Miletus .
Of course, Alexander was not going to
leave it at that and mounted scaling ladders to the front of his triremes to be
used by his men to land on the islet. The mercenaries, on the other hand, did
not ask for mercy but were prepared to fight to death. At this point Alexander showed clemency and in the end
they were included in his army.
With Miletus taken, Alexander could now concentrate on eliminating the threat of the
Persian fleet. He did not want to get involved in a naval battle because his
fleet was much smaller and the men on board were not really trained in naval
warfare. Instead, he sent Philotas by
land to Mycale , preventing the
Persians from landing and getting new provisions and fresh water from the
River Maeander. The fleet withdrew, seeking protection on the island of Samos
instead. Eventually the Persian fleet moved south to the safety of Halicarnassus,
which was still in Persian hands.
This being settled, Alexander elected a democratic leader,
cancelled all taxes and boosted commerce – in short, he started a new period of
prosperity for Miletus .
This prosperity ended with the arrival of the Romans in 133 BC who imposed high
taxes now that the city was part of their Provincia
Asia. By the third century AD, Miletus ’
decline set in as its harbours silted up and marshes were formed.
Today the antique city is to
be found 10 km
inland and in springtime the once so busy port is covered by extensive
marshlands filled with reed and blooming irises. In a way this helps to imagine
what this huge harbour must have looked like. There is the old rotunda that was
part of the Harbour Monument built in honour of Pompeus in 31 BC, still surrounded by water. This Monument must have been at least 7.5 meters high and may
have carried a huge iron pot on top, part of which is now on display at the Pergamon Museum in Berlin .
Maybe after all it was a beacon? Although the marshes are omnipresent in springtime,
the land is entirely dry in autumn, meaning that the visitor gets quite a
different view of Miletus
in either season.
In historical literature, Miletus is
being described as less impressive than Priene, but I think that
is rather cliché for it is just different.
The most striking building is
of course the theatre sitting on the hilltop commanding the entire city of Miletus . It
is one of the most splendid constructions one can imagine, not only because of
the many tiers of seats that have been so well preserved but also because of
the entrance gates and the near-intact vaulted corridors. This theatre clearly
illustrates the high level of architecture reached by the Romans; the very
concept of the theatre is extremely efficient. Easy walking steps take the
visitor to the cool entrails with fascinating views over the surrounding
landscape and the interior of the theatre itself. The first theatre was evidently
Greek, built in the 4th century BC and counted approximately 5,300 seats; the
Romans extended it in the 2nd century AD to hold 25,000 people. The façade by
itself is impressive enough, being 140 meters long and 30 meters high. It is
hard to imagine the full impact of this theatre since the stones of the upper tiers
have been taken to build of the Byzantine church on top, leaving a merely
seating space for 15,000 people.
From up here, one can easily
see the lay-out of the entire city. Following the marshy water line from the
harbour, I find the Delphinium, the
open air Temple of Apollo Delphinius , protector of the
seafarers and the ships. The four remaining columns of the Ionic Stoa next to it
quietly reflect their image in the still waters covering the North Agora. Sitting
in the shadow of these columns I discover an ancient graffiti of a fish and the
Greek word IΧΘΥΣ, both symbols that were used by early Christians – what a
rewarding moment!
The remains of the adjacent Hellenistic Gymnasium are rather poor and the colossal Nympheion from the 2nd century AD that flanks it on the other side requires lots of imagination to
picture it. Across from the Nympheion
are the remains of the Bouleuterion,
built between 175 and 164 BC. But here as elsewhere, the parts belonging to the
Hellenistic period blend in very harmoniously with those that were added later
on by the Romans.
Further south, past the South Agora, the Baths of Faustina, Marcus Aurelius’ wife,are visible; rough brick arches and walls that don’t do justice to
the once so lavish building whose ornamental statues are now in the Archaeological Museum
of Istanbul .
These baths date from 43 AD and I’m not surprised at all to hear that they served
as raw model for the Turkish baths, the hamam. This South Agora belonging to the 2nd century AD measures an impressive
196x164 meters and must have been dwarfing. The southern entrance gate to this
Agora has been entirely moved and reconstructed at the Pergamon Museum
in Berlin (unfortunately it was under
restoration when I visited the museum).
It definitely is worthwhile to
visit Miletus
in spring and again in fall when the water level has receded and the Agoras
show their large slabs of marble flooring. At that time the outline of the
different buildings is much more recognizable, which truly helps to get a
comprehensive view of the city.
Between the Baths of Faustina and the South Agora
lies the Temple of Serapis from the 3rd century AD. Not
much is left except the re-erected pediment showing a relief of the god
Helios Serapis wearing a crown of sun rays. The rectangular buildings seen on the
right hand side are warehouses.
That brings me to the most
exciting location in Miletus ,
the Sacred Road that led all the way to Didyma, the city renowned for its
oracle. The first road must go back to the 6th century BC at least
but has been improved and embellished over the centuries. In 100 and 101 AD, Emperor Trajan, for instance, raised the
level of the road and made the necessary repairs. From the early days onward,
this Sacred Road was lined with statues of the Branchidae(priests and priestesses attached to the temple of Didyma );
crouching lions and sphinxes; votive fountains; and even monumental tombs and
sarcophagi belonging to important persons. None of these features are to be
seen anymore since all were moved to the British Museum
in London ,
the Archaeological Museum
in Istanbul ,
or to the local Museum ofMiletus . This 16.5 kilometres
long road was entirely paved and had a width varying between 5 and 7 meters . Both in Miletus and in Didyma
it is still pretty easy to locate a sizeable stretch of this Sacred Road, just have a close look. I was so lucky to be put on the right track by Peter Sommer during my travel on his tour "In the Footsteps of Alexander the Great" - a most rewarding experience!
I have not found any
indication about the road used by Alexander
on his way from Miletus
to Didyma,
but I like to believe that it is rather obvious that he would have followed this Sacred
Road . For
me, this is another place where Alexander’s
presence is still tangible.
[Click here for more pictures of Miletus]
[Click here for more pictures of Miletus]